Oh gosh, it's the new warlord!

How many no money boyz are crazy, how many boyz are raw?

How many no money boyz are rowdy, how many start a war?

Forgotten Massacres

"What is most regrettable is the fact that young people now have no third choice. If they cannot conform to the government, they must run away. Those interested in peaceful means to bring about freedom and democracy must start from square one."

Dr Puey Ungphakorn

He was referring to the 1976 massacre, but the quote is just as true and relevant today.

Today we forget to remember Hok Tulaa.

Living with no independent media, as reflected in today's headlines in the Bangkok Post and Nation

I always enjoy a bit of state-sponsored brainwashing on a Sunday morning. It goes well with my hangover. Make the connection.

We have a new government in power. They were not elected. They are backed by PAD.
Bangkok Post: Democrats Take Over
Nation: Democrats Claim Majority to Form Government

Our King, who was ill of late and for the first time in his life was unable to make his annual speech on the eve of his birthday (Thurs 4 Dec), is feeling better.
Bangkok Post: Condition of King Improves, Fever Lower
Nation: His Majesty's Condition Improves

Quickie updates

Because now I know people actually read this blog.

Don Muang Airport and Suvarnabhumi airport under emergency decree, navy and airforce brought in to clear out protesters insteado f the army even though the navy are like "but... we don't really know how". Suggests problems within army. [Link]

Earlier today, tanks came out of the barracks suggesting that there would be a coup and then a couple hours later they went back in. Like groundhog day, but with artillery and shit. Suggests, again, problems within the army (one person ordering one thing while another orders something else) (this also happens sometimes when I go to the bar and ask for whiskey soda but instead get rye ordered by someone else). I have no link for this factoid, but just trust me on it. I have many other newses which are interesting and come from sources who are on watchlists and blacklists but I don't want to get detained under the internal security act and so I can't type it here. Sorry.

Meanwhile, PAD thugs at the airport vow not to go anywhere even if the navy and airforce pop by for a visit. They say they will use "human sheilds" to deter them. OK, so really, what the hell is the difference between them and terrorists? I mean, they are armed, they hijacked an airport and they are prepared to sacrifice themselves. Am I in fucking Iraq???? [Link]

OK, but here is the most horrific of all newses guys, are you prepared for this? The Korean Pop concert is being canceled. NOOO!!!!!! [Link]

"You can't stay neutral on a moving train"

It has been a rough day.

This morning I woke up to news about terrorist attacks in south Bombay, also known as "my Bombay". I don't know these Bandra-Borivali suburbs, they were not part of my childhood. I know south Bombay. Chowpatty-Girgaum where my relatives live and my parents grew up. Colaba where I drank beer and made desi eyes at a white tourist for the first time (we all remember our first time). CST (or Victoria Terminus, because I am stuck in the past) from where we always caught our train to Gujrat. Nariman Point where we went after dinner sometimes to just listen to the ocean waves mingle with the sound of horns from cars. This was all I knew of India until age 15, and this was the India which was attacked. I don't take it personally, the world doesn't revolve around me, but I'd like to feel like shit about it for 2 seconds.

My other "home" meanwhile is on the brink of anarchy, though it was top story yesterday my place of birth took it over today. As I brace myself for whatever is to come here in Bangkok, be it a coup or be it a bloodbath (most likely, it will be both), I know things have shifted and nothing will ever be the same again. Both cities will have to change, and I with them because I am connected to them as they are to me.

An activist friend said to me yesterday "you can't be neutral on a moving train" and that has repeated itself in my head all day. What does that mean? Many activists who were previously non-aligned have decided to join the reds, who are pro-government, despite being in ideological opposition to them. Their argument is, when faced with a situation where electoral democracy is at stake, the ends justifies the means. Therefore, join the reds, because the reds want to keep electoral democracy.

See, if a crisis were to break out on a moving train and a difference of opinion were to arise, everyone is still on the same fucking train!! We're on the same railway tracks and our fate is shared. If you think about the analogy, it's really not about picking sides, but about working together for the same end result. And so, does the saying make sense? Perhaps it is when you are on a moving train that you should actually be neutral?? Or am I completely misunderstanding the metaphor?

And what do I think of neutrality? In all honesty, neutrality in my chosen feild of work is linked to apathy and indifference. I am never neutral, and I never will be. "Non-aligned" is not the same as "neutral". I remain non-aligned, that is my stance.

Morning has come and the PAD are still stupid

Last night they seized Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Honestly, think about this. It is a giant colossal structure and pretty much one of the most secured buildings in the country. Look, I'm brown, I know a thing or two about airport security. Police don't look after airport security, the military do. Armed protesters don't just "seize" international airports, the military lets them.

So now there are 10,000 stranded passengers and the Bangkok Post has an editorial about how the airport closure is "hurting the country". We're "losing face" they are "hurting the country" - pay heed to this language!! This is the language of Thai nationalism!

The government's strategy in all this has been pretty sound, in my opinion. They haven't stepped in, they haven't cracked down, they have left the police powerless - they basically are letting the PAD go nuts on the streets and making sure no fault is accounted to them, meanwhile slowly the PAD lose a little bit of the popular support due to their antics and also look a bit silly because they still haven't managed to overthrow the government.

The PM will be announcing a state of emergency today. We have a bunch of international human rights conferences going on in the city at the moment so any laws prohibiting the gathering of 5 or more activists might be problemmatic......!!

Losing face

Honestly, the world's financial system is crumbling and countries of the South are regressing in meeting Millennium Development Goals as people who were being lifted out of poverty are being thrown right back in and a repeat of late-90s IMF economies is a near reality - but all of this made very little news of late compared to the PAD rallies (for once, politics became more newsworthy than the economy, too bad it was the politics of idiots!) and now in true Thai fashion we must discuss economic failure in a way that impacts everyone the way it is supposed to - by discussing reputation!

Thailand may "lose face" and investor confidence if it fails to sign international agreements at the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) summit in Chiang Mai next month, a senior trade official warned.
...

"Thailand is having two kinds of problems - economic and political - that have impacts on the business sector," he said. "We hope the conflicts and issues can be settled peacefully, so the Thai economic situation can start to improve."

Yo Jitsukata, vice-president of the Japanese Chamber of Commerce in Bangkok, said the protests are damaging Thailand's image as a democratic country. "This kind of political confusion degrades Thailand's reputation," said Mr Jitsukata, also president of Marubeni (Thailand). [Link]

Only now Thailand's reputation as a democratic country is being damaged? A coup in 2006 didn't do it for ya? 3 Prime Ministers in one year didn't make you think "well hang on now..."? But today, after video footage of guns and crazy yellow shirts, today we have decided that we should be slightly embarrassed about ourselves and perhaps this has gone on slightly too long. Now, suddenly, we have integrity and it is with this integrity we would like to shift our attention to the economy. For our faces must be saved, lest they be lost.

Bangkok streets

The protests made the cover of the IHT this morning and was the main story on BBC. By the time night had fallen, this had happened on the streets of suburban Bangkok near where the old Don Muang airport was (now being used as a temporary government house after the PAD took the real one over):



Note that at around 30 seconds, a PAD supporter shoots into the distance while his buddy holds up a framed photo of a familiar patriarch.

At around 3 minutes onwards, it seems the journo is being harassed and told to get out of there. The importance of cameras being at the right place at the right times. The importance of journalists in documenting violations. Responsible and brave journalism is so important.

In other news, here is an article connecting PAD with opposition party Democrats.

And check it - PAD have taken over Suvarnabhumi Airport. No flights out, "some" flights in. Looks like we're trapped.

Literally what is happening is that the PAD is creating a situation of total chaos wherein it becomes "justifiable" for the military to step in to restore peace and order on the streets.

Dido grates on my nerves and makes me want to kill myself

Like, when I hear her voice I want to stab myself in the eyeball repeatedly with a blunt pencil. Now watch this:



It's some kind of promo video for Dido's new album, I don't care enough to do the research. The boxer in the film is Nong Tum ("toom" with short "oo"), a kathoey kick-boxer. I think. I remember watching a movie based on her life called Beautiful Boxer which came out in 2003.

Kathoeys and hijras consistently try to establish themselves as "the third sex" only to be refered to by the rest of us as "ladyboys" and "eunuchs", i.e. freaks or sexless. Although, kathoeys are relatively well mainstreamed, at least in Bangkok, and homosexuality is relatively more tolerated in Thailand compared to the rest of Asia. They don't really seem to face the same stigma the hijras face in India where they are systemically more impoverished, etc. One of the best nights of my life involves a gay club near Patpong and 4 ladyboys. Just thought I'd share.

There was also an earlier movie called Satree Lek (The Iron Ladies) which was about a kathoey volleyball team, it was done in kind of a slapstick comedy style while Beautiful Boxer quite seriously attempted to explore poverty and gender/sex constructs within Thai society. Incidentally, "satree lek" means little women.

Anyway, I found this video through Ultrabrown where you can watch Dido do Bombay. Watch it with the sound turned off, it's for your own good. It's interesting how the clip kind of depicts the isolation and disconnect among people in Bombay. In a city where you're constantly colliding with people and are surrounded only by chatter and the sound of car horns, where everything is full speed and schizzophrenic, that even in this city people are alone and there is disconnect. I miss my Bombay city.

Another activist arrested for lese majeste

Just a link: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7714798.stm

Time to self-censor!

This from the BBC, today:

"The Thai government says it is planning to build an internet firewall to block websites deemed insulting to the country's hugely popular royal family.

The Information Ministry says it has received many complaints about such sites, most of which are based abroad." [Link]

I've actually been self-censoring for a while now, but I reckon some posts will need to come down depending on what the next couple weeks look like.

Meanwhile, this also from the BBC, today:

"Microsoft, Google and Yahoo have signed a global code of conduct promising to offer better protection for online free speech and against official intrusion.

The Global Network Initiative follows criticism that companies were assisting governments in countries like China to censor the Internet." [Link]

Criminalising bloggery

The Democrats are pushing Parliament to pass a bill to criminalise freedom of speech on the www, specifically progressive commentary about the monarchy ("enemies of the state"). Commenters on forums get 3-5 years in jail while bloggers get 20 years.

Why does the 21st century look like the Middle Ages?

Commemorating Hok Tulaa Massacre

On this anniversary of Thailand's student uprising on 6 October 1976 and the subsequent violent crackdown, I am paying homage to student movements whose idealism and passion for change and social justice have continuously been subjected to suppression (often violent) by the government, in the name of fighting communism, terrorism or whatever the reason of the day to legitimise force against youth.

The right wing government and elites at the time supported the violence conducted towards the students, which not only included beatings and shootings but also public lynching of "communists" and setting fire to their bodies.

The student groups are absent in this current political crisis which pins one right-wing group against another right-wing group. Individual students are now joining the existing factions, either choosing to side with the pro-Crown PAD or the pro-Thaksin PPP instead of being that cohesive, organised and crucial 3rd voice, the voice of resistance calling for reform.

Here are some clips of former PM Samak and his complete lunacy, both in general and when discussing the massacre specifically. Samak recently had to give up his PM post as his cooking show on national television was in breach of the constitution. Nevertheless, the frightening statements which he makes exemplify that there is still a fight to be fought.

Sex theatre

The bizarre chalk drawings on the wall of monkeys climbing Klimt trees in the nighttime pretty much set the tone for my most hilarious theatre experience. Ever.


Makhampom Theatre originated back in the 1970s as part of the democracy movement. As students were killed and detained, many fled to the jungles up north. As such, the theatre has continued for over 25 years by being based in Chiang Dao in the north. They define their work as being theatre for community and cultural development, so they do both community based folk theatre as well as "theatre for development".

Their studio in Bangkok is out by Saphan Kwai station, it's a tiny but inviting space. I guess watched one of their "theatre for development" pieces called Sperm because it turned out to have a sex education objective.

It began with audience participation. We were to write down on a piece of paper what we call our genitals. Then we fold it and put it in a basket. And THEN, the basket gets passed around and your audience comrades have to read them out loud. The first word to get read out was in English. And it was rude. All eyes turn to the only 2 non-Thais in the room. So, understandably, my audience comrade had a hard time pronouncing it which meant that I had to assist her. Hilarity ensued.

I can't even describe the play if I tried. Everyone wore flourescent stuff and there was black light and people pretending to be sperm and ova. I got lost at certain points, so I had to ask my friend Aoe to help me out with the translation. "He have sex with hand" "now he have sex with mouth" "girl scared of sperm".

At the beginning, when reading out words used to describe our sexual organs or whatever, I found it interesting that the Thai words being read out were metaphorical and mostly a non-reference. One person wrote the Thai word for "bread" another wrote "pig" and another wrote "down there". Most had cute nicknames that mean nothing, like "juu" and "chim". Intrestingly, the audience members were all adults in our early 20s but the play was childish, colourful and spoke about sex firstly from a male point of view (I know it was called "Sperm", but still) and secondly in a very animated, cartoony "let's turn this into a game" way.

I really see the link between the lack of openness in discussion about sex and sexuality and the confusing women's movement here. There is a strong women's labour movement and they have been successful in lobbying for labour rights for women, and there is also a strong sex workers movement where again they have done tremendous work in being recognised under labour law. But there doesn't seem to be much of a broad-based, widespread women's movement that can lead to open discussion, both in the private and public sphere, about sexuality. And so, even in their 20s, young people here are learning about sex through cartoons.

Peace, etc

On September 1st, the day Emergency was declared by PM Samak, a group of 50 student and youth activists defied the ban on gatherings of 5 or more people by holding a peace vigil in the trendy Siam area of town. The message was one of restraint, they walked in silence through the trendy shopping district with candles and signs that urged people not to pick sides.


The night before, government supporters and the PAD had clashed. Foreign media reported at least one dead while locally there were reports of 3 or 4. It was said that this kind of violence has not occurred in Thailand since 1992. But people keep forgetting southern Thailand. And Thaksin's war on drugs. But that's different, right? That's government killing civilians in the name of protection and anti-terrorism and the purging of evil. That's allowed to continue in an atmosphere of impunity. This was brother-on-brother. This, apparently, is more tragic.

Yellow shirts fade slowly

Today is Monday. Every Monday since 2006, Thai people have diligently and loyally worn yellow t-shirts to honour the King. Yellow is also the colour of the People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD), the group that led a "people's movement" to overthrow Thaksin's government in favour of a military coup in the name of restoring dignity to the throne and democracy to the country. Today, however, we all noted a significant decline in the number of people wearing yellow. This is their silent, symbollic gesture of disapproval at the PAD's more recent violent behaviour and tactics.

PAD rally, source: AFP

The current political crisis in Thailand is incredibly disturbing, the PAD (despite their name) seek to end electoral democracy in this country and vow not to stop their fight until the government is dissolved and replaced with a parliament consisting of 30% elected officials and 70% appointed officials by the, uh, "Establishment". 2 years ago, they had mass support to the extent that most in the country believed a coup was necessary and justified - and now they have managed to make a nation of yellow fanatics reach for a new colour in their closet.

Though the protests have gotten violent, for the general public it is business-as-usual. We won't ever see the conflict spill to the rest of the city, I mean, god forbid the urban educated middle class get involved! God forbid they have an opinion they wish to express! What is being overlooked, however, is that something much worse is about to occur: the entire democratic process and institutions of the country are at stake.

Human rights groups and democracy activists are fighting each other, reflecting a highly polarised and divided country. This is the time when human rights groups and progressive academics should be coming out as a strong, united third voice to condemn both the PAD and the government and push for reform, but the factions are deep and feelings have been hurt and I fear they will never be resolved.

It's honestly a really dark time for Thailand at the moment, it is hard to be optimistic.

Land of Controversial Coup, I am back

In the immediate aftermath of the Thai coup last year, it all felt like a bit of a joke. The world continued to turn as per usual, we’d had a bit of excitement but really what was the difference? The general public were unable to understand the magnitude of the loss of their democratic freedoms, everyone just wanted Thaksin out. Surayud’s address to members of the foreign press had clearly outlined that his government was not interested in deterring foreign investment or denying people of their fundamental rights, they wanted to take a common-sense approach to reforming the country, etc. It all seemed like a largely inoffensive takeover, to the point at which even my own staunchly democratic self was able to find the coup justifiable.

I’m back now in the City of Angels after a 3-month hiatus of beaches and Kingfisher beer in the largest democracy in the world. I feel as if I have entered a police state. This post is long overdue, every article I read on Bangkok Post and Nation websites from India would make me increasingly nervous and I have been wanting to comment on it ever since the ridiculous stock market fiasco in December and the Bangkok bombings on New Year’s eve.

From an economic standpoint, one cannot help but compare to the recession back in ’97, it has become The Measure. Back then, the country lost 200 billion baht in foreign investment and the country was nearly crippled, the government was sacked and politicians were held accountable by a very angry public. In December 2006, due to a 30% withholding policy for foreign investments, Thailand lost 600 billion baht practically overnight. (In theory, I’ve always been a fan of withholding tax, it always seemed like the sort of thing that would save Thailand from another 1997. But this is why I’m not finance minister!) Alas, we are worse off today compared to the Nightmare that was ’97 and yet we are unable to take part in government change.

As for the insurgencies in the south, it gets worse every day. Surayud’s heartfelt, teary apology to Muslim communities in the south on behalf of previous government’s neglect worked for about 5 minutes. It has spread to Bangkok where shopping centers have metal detectors and purse-checking, an absurdity we have to take in our stride.

Yesterday, at the ASEAN-EU Ministerial meeting, Thailand had a chance to defend the coup. Europe has been overwhelmingly critical of the coup and has repeatedly called for a restoration of democracy, however they have now given Thailand their vote of confidence that constitutional reform is taking place. It is starting to appear as if the sole goal of Surayud’s cabinet is to make Thaksin’s life very difficult, any kind of constitutional reform is an afterthought.

Most importantly: also yesterday, an anti-coup/anti-government protest of over 1000 people took place at Sanam Luang. There is increasing dissidence and thank Krishna for that! As if people missed the memo, it is plainly obvious that the military has no role in politics. Forget about gun-mongering, it really just is a question of blatant incompetence. (Photos of the comparatively teeny protest in November here).

I have just come from a country of immense optimism. The energy and the vibrancy of India today is fueled by a democratic system that, however imperfect, is pluralistic and deeply entrenches rights and freedoms. It is a system that has worked since Independence, despite and because of the sheer size and diversity of the country. It is not perfect, but never once has the constitution been undermined in the way it is consistently undermined here in Thailand, never in the form of military takeovers. India has had its share of brutality and conflict, but there has never been any other option other than democratic rule. I’ve been back in Bangkok for one week and I feel the insecurity in the atmosphere. It is not oppression, mind you, it is uncertainty and the nervousness that arises from it. It is not being sure if reform is truly taking place.

In other news: what an absolutely abysmal World Cup performance by India last night. I fear that Sehwag’s house will be painted black.

In yet more news: I am never ever going to another fashion/models event in Bangkok ever again. Last night's Fashion Week After Party at Paragon was generous with its whiskey-sodas but packed full of people that may end up fueling my eating disorder. I just wanted to buy them some burgers to be honest, like "here sweetie, eat. Please."

Coup Lite: The Images

FINALLY! Some tanks!

"In the name of the Father"










He just wants to shoot a tourist - just one










This guy is waiting for Godot










[Uh, Insert clever caption]










"Dangerous coup" indeed, sir!










Just ask this guy:
(check out GUTS)

This City Sucks

This town is uninspiring and tiring:
It sucks
The life out of me,
It bleeds
The love out of me.
~~~
Bangkok's bright, loud and vibrant facade masks a far more sinister, deeply disturbing side to the city that brings the taste of vomit to my mouth. Everyone knows this is a city of vice with all kinds of temptation lurking round the corner, its no big secret. Growing up here, I thought I'd seen it all and done it all. But now I've come home with my adult perspective, my feminist perspective - my less clouded, well-informed perspective??

I've come home with Judgement.

I may have made a big mistake, "home" just ain't the same.

This Used To Be My Playground

Friday nights throughout high school were spent in an alley lined with crappy bars in various states of dilapidation. In the darkness and in your drunken state, you could not see the rats or the cockroaches but if you wore a skirt you'd feel them scurry past. Over endless jugs of frozen Kamikaze, we managed to solve all the world's problems week after week. We debated foreign policy and explored what the hell it meant to be a socialist, a feminist, a nationalist; to be an outsider in every city you've ever lived. We were loud and often misinformed but we had opinions, damn it, whether you asked for them or not!

Here in this dark bar at the end of an alley full of vice, we endlessly quoted T. S. Eliot and Arundhati Roy, ripping apart literature as if we'd written the Booker of Bookers. Here, we fell in love and got broken-hearted. Here, we acted a fool. Here, we grew up. We were united by our jug of icy blue intoxicant.

Now we are older. We are tired of our opinions and weary of debate. We have new haircuts, new partners, new homes, new degrees, new ideas. New Lives. Today the alley is different, with garish flourescent lights in technicolour, renovated urban design with bouncers at the entrance and lady-boys who are offended by my cleavage. But the Kamikaze jug stills waits, just as before. And the conversation slowly flows.