In the immediate aftermath of the Thai coup last year, it all felt like a bit of a joke. The world continued to turn as per usual, we’d had a bit of excitement but really what was the difference? The general public were unable to understand the magnitude of the loss of their democratic freedoms, everyone just wanted Thaksin out. Surayud’s address to members of the foreign press had clearly outlined that his government was not interested in deterring foreign investment or denying people of their fundamental rights, they wanted to take a common-sense approach to reforming the country, etc. It all seemed like a largely inoffensive takeover, to the point at which even my own staunchly democratic self was able to find the coup justifiable.
I’m back now in the City of Angels after a 3-month hiatus of beaches and Kingfisher beer in the largest democracy in the world. I feel as if I have entered a police state. This post is long overdue, every article I read on Bangkok Post and Nation websites from India would make me increasingly nervous and I have been wanting to comment on it ever since the ridiculous stock market fiasco in December and the Bangkok bombings on New Year’s eve.
From an economic standpoint, one cannot help but compare to the recession back in ’97, it has become The Measure. Back then, the country lost 200 billion baht in foreign investment and the country was nearly crippled, the government was sacked and politicians were held accountable by a very angry public. In December 2006, due to a 30% withholding policy for foreign investments, Thailand lost 600 billion baht practically overnight. (In theory, I’ve always been a fan of withholding tax, it always seemed like the sort of thing that would save Thailand from another 1997. But this is why I’m not finance minister!) Alas, we are worse off today compared to the Nightmare that was ’97 and yet we are unable to take part in government change.
As for the insurgencies in the south, it gets worse every day. Surayud’s heartfelt, teary apology to Muslim communities in the south on behalf of previous government’s neglect worked for about 5 minutes. It has spread to Bangkok where shopping centers have metal detectors and purse-checking, an absurdity we have to take in our stride.
Yesterday, at the ASEAN-EU Ministerial meeting, Thailand had a chance to defend the coup. Europe has been overwhelmingly critical of the coup and has repeatedly called for a restoration of democracy, however they have now given Thailand their vote of confidence that constitutional reform is taking place. It is starting to appear as if the sole goal of Surayud’s cabinet is to make Thaksin’s life very difficult, any kind of constitutional reform is an afterthought.
Most importantly: also yesterday, an anti-coup/anti-government protest of over 1000 people took place at Sanam Luang. There is increasing dissidence and thank Krishna for that! As if people missed the memo, it is plainly obvious that the military has no role in politics. Forget about gun-mongering, it really just is a question of blatant incompetence. (Photos of the comparatively teeny protest in November here).
I have just come from a country of immense optimism. The energy and the vibrancy of India today is fueled by a democratic system that, however imperfect, is pluralistic and deeply entrenches rights and freedoms. It is a system that has worked since Independence, despite and because of the sheer size and diversity of the country. It is not perfect, but never once has the constitution been undermined in the way it is consistently undermined here in Thailand, never in the form of military takeovers. India has had its share of brutality and conflict, but there has never been any other option other than democratic rule. I’ve been back in Bangkok for one week and I feel the insecurity in the atmosphere. It is not oppression, mind you, it is uncertainty and the nervousness that arises from it. It is not being sure if reform is truly taking place.
In other news: what an absolutely abysmal World Cup performance by India last night. I fear that Sehwag’s house will be painted black.
In yet more news: I am never ever going to another fashion/models event in Bangkok ever again. Last night's Fashion Week After Party at Paragon was generous with its whiskey-sodas but packed full of people that may end up fueling my eating disorder. I just wanted to buy them some burgers to be honest, like "here sweetie, eat. Please."
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Your ability and unique perspective to quickly compare one culture to another (one you call home and one that is home in other ways) is very fascinating, cutting to the heart of the simple difference in feel of a place, a nearly undefinable quality that cuts to the core of people's daily lives. I think India's optimism is what makes it such an interesting place to see right now. It is sad to hear though that Thailand is struggling.
Interesting also to hear your renewed take on the coup. At the time, I found very similar parallels between the overwhelming Thai support for the coup (and a disinterest in looking any deeper than the joy of change that day) to so many previous errors in judgement repeated in every society. People everywhere seem so willing to trade their freedom and rights for safety, security and change. Think of the easy example of how willing and happy we were to grant new laws after 9-11 and how much we realised they weren't so good laws once perspective was regained. And there are 100 examples from other revolts, revolutions and crises. But heightened emotions and frustrations seem to be a universal reason for societies to blind themselves to past lessons. Being so overjoyed that you actually are dismissive or even agressively angry at anyone who contracticts or gives warning seems a universal trait that has been proven wrong a hundred times.
It seems we never learn, but perhaps that is not always a bad thing. Because underneath, at its heart, I see it as a grasping of hope that is the cause. In those times of crises we are so hopeful things will get better. We will trust where we shouldn't, we will believe in the face of evidence, we will cheer for tanks, something that has never, ever proven to be a good idea. But perhaps I think, the loss of hope would be a far worse fate. Need to think on this more...
Keep writing!
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